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Post Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 4:51 pm 
 

Hi Everyone,



My husband and I are in the process of moving and we cleaned out our attic the other day.  In the attic we found about 7 hardcover books, 35 modules, and also a case of figurines (30-40).  It looks like the figurines are from 1970's and some early 80's and the books and modules from the early 1980's.  



I don't think we are interested in trying to find the value of each piece and ebaying it off because we really don't have the time for it.  It's taken us forever just to catalog the following:



Figurines (the numbers come from dndlead.com):  A few pics can be found here:http://steve68stevebay.blogspot.com/

1285 ORCUS

1292 TITAN

1281 GRIFFON

1287 GOLUM

1286 ASMODEUS

1290 DIGINNI

Ral Partha 1977 Hill Giant V2 01-052

1263D FEMALE DEMON

Ral Partha 1979 Centar with Spear V2 RP01-032



Hardcover books:

Manual of the Planes 1st edition

Deities and Demigods 4th edition

DMG 9th edition 1983

MMII 2nd edition



Softcover books:

D&D basic rulebook 9th edition

D&D expert rules 2nd edition



Modules:

Lathan's Gold

The Isle of Dread

Castle Amber

Curse of Xanathon

Master of the Desert Nomads

Temple of Death

Quagmire!

The War Rafts of Kron

The War Rafts of Kron

Ghost of Lion Castle

Te Lost City

The Veiled Society

Maze of the Riddling Minotaur

Beyond the Crystal Cave

Against the Cult of the Reptile God

Sinister Secret of the Salt Marsh

The Assassin's Knot

Dwellers of the Forbidden City

Hidden Shrine of the Tamoachan

To Find a King

The Bane of Llywelyn



And that's not even half of what we have.  



SOOOOO to try and make this short could any of you give us an iota of an idea of how we should unload this stuff???  A starting price to sell it??



ANY help would be much appreciated!![/url]

  

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 5:49 pm 
 

I assume that you want to minimize the pain of listing and packing these items.  Craigslist, eBay drop-off stores, classified ads on Internet forums, and eBay are four paths to selling your junk.
  • Craigslist is always a different experience because it's face-to-face.  Craigslist is an extremely simple way to buy or sell, and photographs are optional.  No packing is involved.  However, take precautions by meeting in a public place and bringing along your husband.
  • eBay drop-off stores take a chunk of the money, but they list everything for you.
  • Classified ads in forums such as the Acaeum or Dragonsfoot allow for more targeted advertising.  However, classified ads also involve sifting through different offers as they are made and updating the ad on different sites as items are sold.
  • eBay requires good photos and descriptions to drum up interest.  If you have previously sold items on eBay, then you know the ups and downs of selling.
Whatever route you choose, you should break the items up into lots as you did in your post --- lead minis (plus dice), rulebooks, modules.  The smaller the lot, the higher the price of individual pieces.  The item's condition (physical condition and completeness) will greatly affect the selling price.

As far as value goes, I don't see anything terribly valuable except for the miniatures of Orcus, Asmodeus, and the Female Demon(s).  Everything else is fairly common.  If everything were complete and in collectible shape, I would guess maximum ranges of
  • Minatures - fifty cents to a dollar apiece.
  • Books and modules - five to ten dollars apiece

Remember that all of the above advice is worth what you paid.  :)

  

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 9:04 pm 
 

The advice given by JohnGaunt is solid.  If I were you, I'd sell the stuff myself on eBay.  Taking it to a re-seller really saps your profits, and they don't always do that good a job of selling it.

Make sure you take good photos and break the stuff up into as many lots as you can stand.  If you want to sell it all in one lot, you won't get as much.  Even breaking it up into four of five lots is better than one or two.  Finally, advertise here once you list it.

Finally, I'd start the lots at a relatively low price (even 99 cents) as the market usually appraises your stuff fairly close to its worth.  There are plenty of exceptions, but those can go both ways (higher than you expect as well as lower).

Good luck!  :)


Truth is worth finding and life is too short to work for money.

  


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Post Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 9:12 am 
 

Ok breaking it up in to lots and e-baying it is.  Thank you guys so much for the advice!  I'm sure the hubs will know what kind of "lots" will make sense.

I don't see anything terribly valuable except for the miniatures of Orcus, Asmodeus, and the Female Demon(s)

Any ideas on what we should list these things at?

Also hubs just asked what X7 The War Rafts of Kron would be worth?  We have two and both have been unplayed and are in great condition.

  

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 10:01 am 
 

The X7's if in really good condition should go for between $5-10.

I can not help you on the minis; not my cup of tea.

Martin

  

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 10:26 am 
 

MrsSteve wrote:Ok breaking it up in to lots and e-baying it is.  Thank you guys so much for the advice!  I'm sure the hubs will know what kind of "lots" will make sense.


Any ideas on what we should list these things at?


I sell lots of miniatures.

You can list them individually or in lots according to type (humanoids, monsters, dragons, demons, whatever).  Again, usually the market will determine a price that's close to fair, so start low.  I personally have found that a low starting price generates lots of interest, but I also have a loyal following of buyers, so that works well for me.  It all depends if you want to take weeks or months to sell them at an optimal price or if you just want to get rid of them for sure.

Packing them properly is usually the biggest challenge for folks who have never sold minis before.  It's time consuming, you'll want to wrap each one individually in bubble wrap and them pack them snuggly in a cardboard box, especially if there's more than one in the package.  Box content movement usually results in damage during shipping.

Finally, do be careful when handling minis.  Don't touch your face while handling them and wash your hands with soap immediately after.  Many of these older minis contain lead, and your body doesn't clean out lead from your system quckly.  That also means keep them away from kids.  Paint or primer can protect you from lead contact, but most painters fail to paint the bottom of the mini.   8)


Truth is worth finding and life is too short to work for money.

  

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:10 am 
 

MrsSteve wrote:Hi Everyone,

My husband and I are in the process of moving and we cleaned out our attic the other day.  In the attic we found about 7 hardcover books, 35 modules, and also a case of figurines (30-40).  It looks like the figurines are from 1970's and some early 80's and the books and modules from the early 1980's.  

I don't think we are interested in trying to find the value of each piece and ebaying it off because we really don't have the time for it.  It's taken us forever just to catalog the following:

Figurines (the numbers come from dndlead.com):  A few pics can be found here:http://steve68stevebay.blogspot.com/
1285 ORCUS
1292 TITAN
1281 GRIFFON
1287 GOLUM
1286 ASMODEUS
1290 DIGINNI
Ral Partha 1977 Hill Giant V2 01-052
1263D FEMALE DEMON
Ral Partha 1979 Centar with Spear V2 RP01-032

Hardcover books:
Manual of the Planes 1st edition
Deities and Demigods 4th edition
DMG 9th edition 1983
MMII 2nd edition

Softcover books:
D&D basic rulebook 9th edition
D&D expert rules 2nd edition

Modules:
Lathan's Gold
The Isle of Dread
Castle Amber
Curse of Xanathon
Master of the Desert Nomads
Temple of Death
Quagmire!
The War Rafts of Kron
The War Rafts of Kron
Ghost of Lion Castle
Te Lost City
The Veiled Society
Maze of the Riddling Minotaur
Beyond the Crystal Cave
Against the Cult of the Reptile God
Sinister Secret of the Salt Marsh
The Assassin's Knot
Dwellers of the Forbidden City
Hidden Shrine of the Tamoachan
To Find a King
The Bane of Llywelyn

And that's not even half of what we have.  

SOOOOO to try and make this short could any of you give us an iota of an idea of how we should unload this stuff???  A starting price to sell it??

ANY help would be much appreciated!![/url]




You need to make list of everything and check these items for completeness. You also need to make note of condition. Mustiness and mold are killers, but any smells, such as items the smell of smoke, also take a serious hit when it comes to sellability.



It is a pain, especially when you are unsure of what these modules should contain, but if you are going to sell you need to do it.



As for selling, making the list is important because some items tend to sell for a great deal more than others, such as higher number X series modules and B series modules.



When you do go to sell the easiest way is to put these things into a big lot, or several smaller auction lots. This tends to be the best way to sell common modules which can be difficult to sell individually.



You will want to make sure you get the module name and numbers entered correctly to catch buyers eyes or search engines. So instead of War Rafts of Kron it is, as you posted, X7 War Rafts of Kron.



If you are running an auction make sure to post it at a good time such as 10 or 11 PM EST so you can catch buyers across all the time zones before they go to bed and after most get home from work.



You should compile your list with condition and post it here, and see if anyone can suggest a reserve price that is reasonable so that a bad day on ebay doesn't just kill your chances of getting a resonable return.



It can be a lot of work, but you definitely want to create a complete list to see if some of the modules are worth looking at more closely even you do not want to check every module. Be warned though, if you are selling the lot AS IS and haven't checked each item for condition or completeness then the value of the lot will most likely drop dramaticaly.


"You get more with a kind word and an excruciator than with just a kind word."

  


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Post Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 2:29 pm 
 

benjoshua wrote:
Finally, do be careful when handling minis.  Don't touch your face while handling them and wash your hands with soap immediately after.  Many of these older minis contain lead, and your body doesn't clean out lead from your system quckly.  That also means keep them away from kids.  Paint or primer can protect you from lead contact, but most painters fail to paint the bottom of the mini.   8)


Didn't seem to cause me any problems whilst I was painting the lead minis I had between the age 11-18... :shaking2:  :shaking:  :pale:


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Post Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 11:17 am 
 

If you want to sell everything quickly, better doing an auction on eBay (with such a lot, you will get A LOT of offers  :D ), if you have time to spare better prepare separate auctions for the books and the miniatures in my opinion...

  


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Post Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 5:45 am 
 

I appreciate all of the help guys!!  I really do.  I think he has started to sell pieces on e-bay.  Just a book or two as we are crunched for time with moving in a few weeks.

His user name is steve68steve68 if anyone is interested in doing a search for his things.

As for now, it's in his lap because I'm a busy wife.

Thank you all again very, very much!

  


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Post Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 6:28 am 
 

Doesn't seem to have anything listed, unless I looked in the wrong place?



eBay listings


Rolls a '3'

"Did I hit.....?"

  


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Post Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 8:31 am 
 

Looks like he got a few things listed.



eBay listings



As a note, add D&D, AD&D, Dungeons & Dragons to the title (however many you can fit into the title without paying for the additional line) of the auction for people who only search by those terms.


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Post Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 9:12 am 
 

SoulCatcher78 wrote:Looks like he got a few things listed.

eBay listings

As a note, add D&D, AD&D, Dungeons & Dragons to the title (however many you can fit into the title without paying for the additional line) of the auction for people who only search by those terms.





** expired eBay auction **




Mitchell is my favorite spin cast reel. This is a classic 300 but it is the new generation. The "Mitchell" in gold is actually plastic which makes the reel look kind of cheap. However, the body and guts are fantastic.

Just thought you guys would like to know.

I have a 30 year old 300 that works like new. I also have some new Mitchells, but old reliable is just a great piece of craftmanship.


And I could've bought these damn modules off the 1$ rack!!!

New modules for your Old School game http://pacesettergames.com/

Everything Pacesetter at http://pacesettergames.blog.com/

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 9:53 am 
 

bbarsh wrote:Mitchell is my favorite spin cast reel. This is a classic 300 but it is the new generation. The "Mitchell" in gold is actually plastic which makes the reel look kind of cheap. However, the body and guts are fantastic.


LOL.  I haven't gone fishing in years but went a lot with my Dad and Grandpa when I was growing up.  I have a Mitchell 300 as well that is probably about 25 years old.  I think its mounted on my Shakespeare Ugly Stik.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 10:04 am 
 

Mars wrote:
LOL.  I haven't gone fishing in years but went a lot with my Dad and Grandpa when I was growing up.  I have a Mitchell 300 as well that is probably about 25 years old.  I think its mounted on my Shakespeare Ugly Stik.


Mitchell is not one of the big names anymore, but I think they produced the best spinning reels back in the day. I have about 20 rods hanging in the garage, along with chest waders for me and kids, but we don't get out anywhere near enough. A few times a year at best. Too much with travel sports (baseball, softball) and now we are in football/volleyball season...man, I need to go fishing and leave it all behind!


And I could've bought these damn modules off the 1$ rack!!!

New modules for your Old School game http://pacesettergames.com/

Everything Pacesetter at http://pacesettergames.blog.com/

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