Interesting Non-TSR Items Formerly on eBay
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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 9:46 am 
 

Activated Charcoal is the key term. The following is from an article on "Howstuffworks.com".

HowStuffWorks "What is activated charcoal and why is it used in filters?"

"Activated charcoal is charcoal that has been treated with oxygen to open up millions of tiny pores between the carbon atoms. According to Encylopedia Britannica:

     The use of special manufacturing techniques results in highly porous charcoals that have surface areas of 300-2,000 square metres per gram. These so-called active, or activated, charcoals are widely used to adsorb odorous or coloured substances from gases or liquids.

The word adsorb is important here. When a material adsorbs something, it attaches to it by chemical attraction. The huge surface area of activated charcoal gives it countless bonding sites. When certain chemicals pass next to the carbon surface, they attach to the surface and are trapped."


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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 9:56 am 
 

jasonw1239 wrote:The huge surface area of activated charcoal gives it countless bonding sites. When certain chemicals pass next to the carbon surface, they attach to the surface and are trapped."

Jeez, sounds like a gibbering mouther or black pudding or something.

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:19 am 
 

You might want to try pet stores that have fish. Its used in filtration. fwiw.

  

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 2:42 pm 
 

Wow.

   Deimos has a color analyzer that can pick out colors in a game publication scan not visible to the human eye.

   Now jasonw1239 knows lots of science stuff, too.

   Does anyone here have a chemistry set that could analyze the manufacturing dates of low density dice?   :lol:

   But what I want is a process for removing staple rust (a problem I never expected) or a plug-in device that wipes out mildew.   :x

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:16 pm 
 

MShipley88 wrote:Wow.

   Deimos has a color analyzer that can pick out colors in a game publication scan not visible to the human eye.

   Now jasonw1239 knows lots of science stuff, too.

   Does anyone here have a chemistry set that could analyze the manufacturing dates of low density dice?   :lol:

   But what I want is a process for removing staple rust (a problem I never expected) or a plug-in device that wipes out mildew.   :x

Mark    8)


A UV light shining on the item for some time will kill mold and I would think mildew but I am not sure...any feedback from otehrs on this as I am just guessing? You have to be carefule though as it can damage paper IIRC. There is a thread or someother area of infromation on this here again IIRC.


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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:19 pm 
 

UV light.  Are there any handy household sources of UV?

Also, how much exposure is too much?

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:19 pm 
 

Also, wouldn't every page of a book have to be exposed separately?

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:24 pm 
 

MShipley88 wrote:UV light.  Are there any handy household sources of UV?
You can try good, old-fashioned sunlight, assuming your mold hasn't evolved enough to wear shades/tanning lotion.  8)

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:25 pm 
 

Now...see....there's that science stuff again!   :x


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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:29 pm 
 

MShipley88 wrote:Now...see....there's that science stuff again!   :x
I'm still thinking on the dice...I figure if I can lift fingerprint residue from it, I might be able to do radiocarbon dating...but that's only gonna be accurate within 2-3 years, and will only work if the dice haven't been touched more than once since they were made.  But "my people" are working on it.  :wink:

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:50 pm 
 

Here is that article....

Mold Mildew


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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 4:55 pm 
 

When I see terms like "lw3tz =O" and "n00b" in an auction, I have to immediately classify the seller as a fukin idiot. Having done that, I read through carefully, and when lines like "All items sold "AS IS". My items may or may not smell of cigarette odor" come up, you can be dead sure it does. The freaking n00b probably tried to smoke the damn box, for all anyone knows.


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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 5:16 pm 
 

Deadlord39 wrote:When I see terms like "lw3tz =O" and "n00b" in an auction, I have to immediately classify the seller as a fukin idiot. Having done that, I read through carefully, and when lines like "All items sold "AS IS". My items may or may not smell of cigarette odor" come up, you can be dead sure it does. The freaking n00b probably tried to smoke the damn box, for all anyone knows.


yeha i am like that - "items sold as-is" i tend to always avoid unless its an utter steal. always used to end up dissappointed with an item coming from an auction with that in.

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 7:35 pm 
 

MShipley88 wrote:Wow.

   Deimos has a color analyzer that can pick out colors in a game publication scan not visible to the human eye.

   Now jasonw1239 knows lots of science stuff, too.

   Does anyone here have a chemistry set that could analyze the manufacturing dates of low density dice?   :lol:

   But what I want is a process for removing staple rust (a problem I never expected) or a plug-in device that wipes out mildew.   :x

Mark    8)


Remove the staples and the problem goes away. :)   In documents deemed historical in nature this is a common practice since it is pretty much inevitable that the staples will rust.  I wonder how much it would reduce the cost of one of the rare items, assuming it wasn't in SW?  One would think that it wouldn't have much bearing on the value, especially if they were included.

Any thoughts?

  

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:18 pm 
 

If someone was selling a rare without the staples I think words like Frankenstein or photocopy might pop up.

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:12 pm 
 

Not if you had the staples in a separate baggie.  Quite a few of the really rare ones don't even have staples.  Some are even loose sheets.

I'm thinking along the lines of the R1-R4, RPGA1-4.  These modules are very prone to rust on the staples.  I suspect the staples used for these products were inferior.  Wouldn't it be better to carefully remove the staples before they cause permanent damage?

  

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2006 12:28 am 
 

Number of Microgame auctions.....


** expired/removed eBay auction **



** expired/removed eBay auction **



** expired/removed eBay auction **



** expired/removed eBay auction **


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Post Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2006 2:08 am 
 

dbartman wrote:Not if you had the staples in a separate baggie.  Quite a few of the really rare ones don't even have staples.  Some are even loose sheets.

I'm thinking along the lines of the R1-R4, RPGA1-4.  These modules are very prone to rust on the staples.  I suspect the staples used for these products were inferior.  Wouldn't it be better to carefully remove the staples before they cause permanent damage?


The only real problem with a couple of my older items is staple rust.  I had no idea to watch out for it before I was an active collector.

Mark   8)


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