Interesting Non-TSR Items Formerly on eBay
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Post Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 10:48 pm 
 

grodog wrote:
faro wrote:Hoping that that OCE has /zero/ smoke smell once the "protective plastic" is removed. Possibly a bit of a bargain, if so.


Actually, I need to be paying more attention with my bids:  if I had read the auction listing thoroughly and noticed that that smoke comment, I wouldn't have bid at all :(


David, it seems that I would have been better served by paying more attention, alas:  I opened  
** expired eBay auction **
this evening, and it's still smoky.  Not as bad as it would have been if it hadn't been packed up well (the seller's description was spot-on wrt how well it had been packed up:  however, I'll willing to surmise that it to smoky prior to him wrapping it up.  Either way, it's smoky but not awful, and may well air out in time.  Perhaps my attic's woody (not Woodgrain, just woody ;) ) will help to counter it.  It's a shame, really, since the set is hands-down the nicest OCE I've had since selling my original one in 94/95.  C'est la vie....


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Post Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 11:00 pm 
 

madman31 wrote:As far as taking a private offer, sorry.  If I disappointed some of you by ending the auction as a result thereof, sorry as well.


No worries on my front, madman31:  you gotta do what you gotta do ;)


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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 12:41 am 
 

First Fantasy Campaign...Sorry......


** expired eBay auction **


WD #1...can't tell if a reprint or not....


** expired eBay auction **


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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:34 am 
 

Charcoal.

Use Charcoal to remove the odours - you don't have to rub it on, just have it close by...

"Musty odors: "Activated charcoal reduces odors," says Meredith Montague of Boston's Museum of Fine Arts. Pour two cups into an airtight bin, prop your items on a showbox in the bin so they don't touch the powder, seal until fresh, then air them out."

I reckon you could use regular cooking charcoal too - although you would probably need more as it will be (for equivalent weight) less effective.

Then it will truly be the beautiful object you want it to be. :D

grodog wrote:

David, it seems that I would have been better served by paying more attention, alas:  I opened  
** expired eBay auction **
this evening, and it's still smoky.  Not as bad as it would have been if it hadn't been packed up well (the seller's description was spot-on wrt how well it had been packed up:  however, I'll willing to surmise that it to smoky prior to him wrapping it up.  Either way, it's smoky but not awful, and may well air out in time.  Perhaps my attic's woody (not Woodgrain, just woody ;) ) will help to counter it.  It's a shame, really, since the set is hands-down the nicest OCE I've had since selling my original one in 94/95.  C'est la vie....


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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:43 am 
 

red_bus wrote:Use Charcoal to remove the odours - you don't have to rub it on, just have it close by...

Handling art-school or BBQ charcoal can get messy, so be careful not to get smudges on everything.

  


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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 9:45 am 
 

red_bus wrote:Use Charcoal to remove the odours - you don't have to rub it on, just have it close by...


Thanks for the tip, red_bus!  I'll have to see where I can find some charcoal now....


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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 9:46 am 
 

Activated Charcoal is the key term. The following is from an article on "Howstuffworks.com".

HowStuffWorks "What is activated charcoal and why is it used in filters?"

"Activated charcoal is charcoal that has been treated with oxygen to open up millions of tiny pores between the carbon atoms. According to Encylopedia Britannica:

     The use of special manufacturing techniques results in highly porous charcoals that have surface areas of 300-2,000 square metres per gram. These so-called active, or activated, charcoals are widely used to adsorb odorous or coloured substances from gases or liquids.

The word adsorb is important here. When a material adsorbs something, it attaches to it by chemical attraction. The huge surface area of activated charcoal gives it countless bonding sites. When certain chemicals pass next to the carbon surface, they attach to the surface and are trapped."


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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 9:56 am 
 

jasonw1239 wrote:The huge surface area of activated charcoal gives it countless bonding sites. When certain chemicals pass next to the carbon surface, they attach to the surface and are trapped."

Jeez, sounds like a gibbering mouther or black pudding or something.

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:19 am 
 

You might want to try pet stores that have fish. Its used in filtration. fwiw.

  

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 2:42 pm 
 

Wow.

   Deimos has a color analyzer that can pick out colors in a game publication scan not visible to the human eye.

   Now jasonw1239 knows lots of science stuff, too.

   Does anyone here have a chemistry set that could analyze the manufacturing dates of low density dice?   :lol:

   But what I want is a process for removing staple rust (a problem I never expected) or a plug-in device that wipes out mildew.   :x

Mark    8)


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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:16 pm 
 

MShipley88 wrote:Wow.

   Deimos has a color analyzer that can pick out colors in a game publication scan not visible to the human eye.

   Now jasonw1239 knows lots of science stuff, too.

   Does anyone here have a chemistry set that could analyze the manufacturing dates of low density dice?   :lol:

   But what I want is a process for removing staple rust (a problem I never expected) or a plug-in device that wipes out mildew.   :x

Mark    8)


A UV light shining on the item for some time will kill mold and I would think mildew but I am not sure...any feedback from otehrs on this as I am just guessing? You have to be carefule though as it can damage paper IIRC. There is a thread or someother area of infromation on this here again IIRC.


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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:19 pm 
 

UV light.  Are there any handy household sources of UV?

Also, how much exposure is too much?

Mark   8)


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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:19 pm 
 

Also, wouldn't every page of a book have to be exposed separately?

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:24 pm 
 

MShipley88 wrote:UV light.  Are there any handy household sources of UV?
You can try good, old-fashioned sunlight, assuming your mold hasn't evolved enough to wear shades/tanning lotion.  8)

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:25 pm 
 

Now...see....there's that science stuff again!   :x


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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:29 pm 
 

MShipley88 wrote:Now...see....there's that science stuff again!   :x
I'm still thinking on the dice...I figure if I can lift fingerprint residue from it, I might be able to do radiocarbon dating...but that's only gonna be accurate within 2-3 years, and will only work if the dice haven't been touched more than once since they were made.  But "my people" are working on it.  :wink:

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:50 pm 
 

Here is that article....

Mold Mildew


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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 4:55 pm 
 

When I see terms like "lw3tz =O" and "n00b" in an auction, I have to immediately classify the seller as a fukin idiot. Having done that, I read through carefully, and when lines like "All items sold "AS IS". My items may or may not smell of cigarette odor" come up, you can be dead sure it does. The freaking n00b probably tried to smoke the damn box, for all anyone knows.


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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 5:16 pm 
 

Deadlord39 wrote:When I see terms like "lw3tz =O" and "n00b" in an auction, I have to immediately classify the seller as a fukin idiot. Having done that, I read through carefully, and when lines like "All items sold "AS IS". My items may or may not smell of cigarette odor" come up, you can be dead sure it does. The freaking n00b probably tried to smoke the damn box, for all anyone knows.


yeha i am like that - "items sold as-is" i tend to always avoid unless its an utter steal. always used to end up dissappointed with an item coming from an auction with that in.

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 7:35 pm 
 

MShipley88 wrote:Wow.

   Deimos has a color analyzer that can pick out colors in a game publication scan not visible to the human eye.

   Now jasonw1239 knows lots of science stuff, too.

   Does anyone here have a chemistry set that could analyze the manufacturing dates of low density dice?   :lol:

   But what I want is a process for removing staple rust (a problem I never expected) or a plug-in device that wipes out mildew.   :x

Mark    8)


Remove the staples and the problem goes away. :)   In documents deemed historical in nature this is a common practice since it is pretty much inevitable that the staples will rust.  I wonder how much it would reduce the cost of one of the rare items, assuming it wasn't in SW?  One would think that it wouldn't have much bearing on the value, especially if they were included.

Any thoughts?

  
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