I think my mother (prof antiques dealer) uses cloth with nail polish or special glue-remove solution.

Can't swear to it, though.

Just to clarify -- that's nail polish remover (acetone) -- not nail polish!  Unless you want that sparkling shine.

Foul

I've had the same problem and someone on this forum gave me the advice to use a hair-dryer: How to remove remainder of price tag from cover?

It worked pretty well! Maybe give it a try.

Reviving an old thread. . . but I had been meaning to post to this for awhile now.

I am constantly removing glue & price stickers from RPG items.  In all but a very few instances, I am able to remove any residue with the following techniques - all of which minimize any potential harm to the item.

- If you have glue residue (not the hard & brittle kind) simply get a clean cotton piece of fabric - an old T-shirt works just fine.  Put the book on a firm surface and rub outwards towards the nearest edge . Keep repeating this with firm pressure (use your thumb for best results).  Eventually, the glue will become tacky and start to lift and congeal.  As you repeat the rubbing, it will start to come off.  If the glue proves to be particlarly stubborn, then wet it slightly with some "barely damp" fabric (or if nobody is looking you can just "spit shine" it.   ) .  Then repeat until the glue is gone.

- Where price stickers or tape are concerned, gently begin to peel at the edges.  Take your time, get as much off as possible (though many tend to come off fairly easily).  If you are unable to get some (or all) of the sticker off by peeling just leave it alone.  Then just follow the procedure I mentioned above - it there is still "sticker" left, then wet if first - sometimes multiple wettings are necessary.  

- Brittle glue is best removed by gently chipping away at it and then finishing up as outlined above.  I find that "chipping away" is most easily accompished with my fingernails - though if you don't bite your nails like I do, they are probably too long and you might risk damaging or scratching the surface.  

Keep in mind that when I say "wet" I mean the barest minimum which is then promptly wiped clean.  This technique works for almost any module or semi-glossy/glossy covered item.  It also works for all hardcover books.  The only thing I wouldn't recommend it for are "paper surfaces" - like Dragon Mags or internal pages.

I haven't tried heat, goo gone or Acetone; but I would hesitate to do so as they could potentially damage the item.  In any case, I find my methods quick, effective and non-damaging.

I use nail polish remover (acetone) all the time, but with a caveat: ONLY ON GLOSSY/PLASTCIZED COVERS. I'm meaning the kind of covers on books and such that have highly reflective surfaces. On them, the acetone works quickly and without damage.

If the cover doesn't have that kind of surface, acetone can remove surface coloring. If I'm not sure, I'll test in a dab on some inconsequential area.

However, I like some of these ideas I've seen in this thread... Thanks a bunch for reviving it! I'm going to give Goo-Gone a shot, and beyond-the-breach's processes as well.

red_dawn wrote:I use nail polish remover (acetone) all the time

  OK -- so I start out wetting it with acetone and then follow up with Deadlord36 suggestion "I find open flame to be a great help. "

THAT combo should take care of the gunk!!!  

I used Acetone in my working life -- and it worked great, or ruined the piece.  Melts many kinds of plastic and finishes.  Acetone free nail polish remover works -- but requires more 'elbow grease'.  I have yet to find tape/glue residue that Goo Gone does NOT remove. And baby wipes are great for many kinds of cleaning -- especially the computer desk and keyboard.

Now, where did I put that butane torch . . .