2e Arms & Equipment Guide
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Post Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 12:49 pm 
 

I have two separate versions of the Arms & Equipment Guide.  One appears to be a first printing (or thereabouts) and the other is a fifth printing.  The early printing is distinguished with DMGR3 Accessory in the upper left hand corner of the front; the TSR-in-a-box logo on the front; different back cover information ($15.00 vs. $20.00/CAN $26.00 for the later printing).

Anyone know if there's any particular value to the different printings with these?

  


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Post Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 1:03 pm 
 

You'll find multiple copies and variations of the DMGR, PHBR, HR type books, but they're too common for printing differentiation to matter to collectors.  The PHBRs, for example, achieved print runs similar to some hardcovers.  The exceptions are the occasional CGR auctions which might surprise you.
:wink:

  


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Post Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 1:06 pm 
 

Forgive my naivete -- what does CGR mean?

  


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Post Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 1:20 pm 
 

They're setting-specific handbooks.

CGR1:  Complete Spacefarer (Spelljammer)
CGR2:  Complete Gladiator (Dark Sun)
CGR3:  Complete Sha'ir (Al Qadim)

Also the Complete Necromancer's handbook does nicely.  But that's all I can think of that do.

:)

  


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Post Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 1:23 pm 
 

Ah.  Strange, I swear I've seen the Shai'ir's Handbook go for almost nothing at times -- Al-Qadim seems to be, by far, the least popular of all the campaign settings they produced.  Although I'd argue that Ravenloft has the most glut of good condition material (the sheer # of ravenloft lots with EX+ or SW items are proof of that).

  


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Post Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 1:39 pm 
 

Each gameworld has its own rares and commons, but overall I would rate the financial (and thus collector) prospects of each gameworld as follows:

1        Greyhawk
2        Planescape
3        Forgotten Realms (below this point, things get ugly)
4        Mystara
5        Dragonlance
6        Dark Sun
7        Oriental Adventures
8        Al-Qadim
9        Lankhmar
10        Conan
11        Ravenloft
12        Spelljammer
13        Birthright
14        Red Steel

But keep in mind that some Greyhawk modules (such as I1) don't sell well, and even Birthright has a rare or two.  That's just a general (and personal) overview of the campaign worlds overall.

  


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Post Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 1:41 pm 
 

Got my Sha'ir's Handbook recently for $7 BIN. I know of some collectors who collect 2E print runs. I am not one of them, but I am interested in 2E print runs.


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Post Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 1:50 pm 
 

Interesting list.

darkseraphim wrote:1        Greyhawk
2        Planescape


Planescape I kind of understand.  It's also helped by the fact that PS:T is considered one of the best, if not THE best, computer RPGs ever.  The lack of a 3e extension to the setting, and its overall uniqueness, certainly contribute as well.

4        Mystara


I rarely see much Mystara stuff.

5        Dragonlance


I can see that.

6        Dark Sun


I must be strange, because I LOVE the Dark Sun campaign setting.  I thought it had a very nice flavor, a vicious feeling world, a good overall "mood".

8        Al-Qadim


I see this for sale constantly and it almost never gets high bids.

9        Lankhmar
10        Conan


I would have imagined the above two would be higher, simply because of carry over to fans of the fiction.

11        Ravenloft


Popular, but just too much supply?  I think have THREE copies of Darklords and Death Unchained...like, buy enough on eBay, and you get multiples of those for free =)

12        Spelljammer
13        Birthright


I thought the above two were also interesting in their own rights.  Birthright has a lot of material but I still find that it's not terribly easy to come by (but the prices are still low).  Spelljammer is similar in that regard.

I would like to pick up all of SJ and BR though at some point, I only have a handful of modules for each.  Whereas I think I got 95% of Ravenloft in 24 hours =)

14        Red Steel


Heh, didn't even realize it was a setting.

  


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Post Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 1:51 pm 
 

darkseraphim wrote:Each gameworld has its own rares and commons, but overall I would rate the financial (and thus collector) prospects of each gameworld as follows:

1        Greyhawk
2        Planescape
3        Forgotten Realms (below this point, things get ugly)
4        Mystara
5        Dragonlance
6        Dark Sun
7        Oriental Adventures
8        Al-Qadim
9        Lankhmar
10        Conan
11        Ravenloft
12        Spelljammer
13        Birthright
14        Red Steel

But keep in mind that some Greyhawk modules (such as I1) don't sell well, and even Birthright has a rare or two.  That's just a general (and personal) overview of the campaign worlds overall.


This is my list of top AD&D 2E items, considering value:

- Forgotten Realms: Secrets of the Sages newsletter
- Planescape: Planes of Conflict
- Forgotten Realms: The Forgotten Realms Interactive Atlas
- Silver Anniversary Collectors Box
- Forgotten Realms: LC6 Procampur Packet
- Forgotten Realms: Kara-Tur Boxed Setting
- Birthright: Hogunmark
- Planescape: Hellbound The Blood War
- DMGR8 The Complete Book of Necromancers
- Core Rules CD-ROM 2.0
- Greyhawk: From the Ashes
- Greyhawk: Iuz the Evil
- Ral Partha miniature boxes for Planescape, Ravenloft, Dark Sun, and others
- the Gold Promo items

Did I forget anything?


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Post Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 1:59 pm 
 

A few additions off the top of my head, I'm sure I'm missing some:

Dark and Hidden Ways
The Planescape Sketchbook
WGR1
Wild Things
Most Planescape non-adventure releases

  


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Post Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 2:07 pm 
 

darkseraphim wrote:A few additions off the top of my head, I'm sure I'm missing some:

Dark and Hidden Ways
Wild Things


Ah, yes. I always consider it 1E, because I think, only the shrinkwrapped pack with the DSG/WSG is collectable, but they've got the 2E logo.

darkseraphim wrote:The Planescape Sketchbook


Most definitely!

darkseraphim wrote:WGR1
Most Planescape non-adventure releases


Nearly top 2e items  :wink:


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Post Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 10:07 am 
 

- As Hardcover manuals go. . .  I consistently sell the Monstrous Manual for around $24.00.

- Complete Ninja's Handbook is the best selling Player's Guide.

- "A Paladin in Hell" adventure module has always sold well for me.

- Complete sets of Encyclopedia Magica or the Wizard/Priest Spell Compendium sells for a good amount (though, to keep it in perspective, it is still far less than it would have cost to buy them NEW when they were released!!)


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Post Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 10:12 am 
 

beyondthebreach wrote:- Complete sets of Encyclopedia Magica or the Wizard/Priest Spell Compendium sells for a good amount (though, to keep it in perspective, it is still far less than it would have cost to buy them NEW when they were released!!)


And, according to Ryan Dancey, it did cost TSR even more to make them.  8O


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Post Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 10:21 am 
 

beyondthebreach wrote:- Complete sets of Encyclopedia Magica or the Wizard/Priest Spell Compendium sells for a good amount (though, to keep it in perspective, it is still far less than it would have cost to buy them NEW when they were released!!)


Complete sets of anything seem to sell better than individual pieces from those sets.  Amortized shipping and lower headache for buyers looking for multiple units seems to help a lot.

I'm dealing with a dilemma right now, where I have probably 16 different items I need to sell, but the thought of scanning/photographing each one, individually, and then listing them all, to get maybe $3/each on average, is just painful.  I mean, does the world need ANOTHER Fiend Folio auction?  :?

But if I plan to recoup some of my collection costs, I really need to sell my duplicates, whether it's just a good condition B1, a complete an excellent condition Dark Sun boxed set (including the poster, Ralf =) ), a complete and good condition S2, etc.  None of these are particularly "sexy", but it's still $50-60 of items (including my other stuff) that I can then convert into another lot or two of purchases =)

  


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Post Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 11:08 am 
 

Paradoxically, the more money you spend, the more you'll make.  There are two major ways to make money at selling.  Both involve having a fairly large and interesting inventory, because buyers want to consolidate shipping costs to save money, they want the convenience of using/trusting a single seller when possible, and the more people you have bidding on your items, the more chance you have of getting higher end prices as they compete.  You can improve your odds by starting your auctions extremely low ($0.01, no reserve), which attracts even more bidders; but that's a gamble if your inventory is small.

Anyway ...
8)

I don't know what you're selling, but if they're all commons and your eBay reputation is small, you're not going to get much.  If you buy a couple cheap lots and piece them out with your current inventory, you'll have better results.

The two processes I've had luck with are:

[1]  Hunting.  This involves digging up poorly-worded auctions, auctions without pictures, items from questionable/unknown sellers, and items in the wrong category.  Snipes at the last minute keep these finds "secret."  Profit tends to run around 50%-100%, depending on what you find, but your overall volume is low and you need to spend a lot of time performing deep searches.  I do this when I'm broke.

[2]  Power buying.  This involves creating a list of search words and saving the searches, and performing them every week or so.  Your focus is on lots and collections.  Place a fair but cheap bid on every decent lot you find, via snipe.  I usually bid on about 100-150 auctions at a time and win 10-30, but those wins give me hundreds of modules and books at a low price each.  Then, twice a month or so, sort everything you've acquired, and sell one item (A1, A2, etc.) of each type that you have.  Don't sell duplicates simultaneously or you'll compete with yourself and minimize your profit potential.  Profit tends to run around 10%-100%, and is very hard to predict, but volume is high and your time-profit ratio is fairly efficient.  I do this when I have deep pockets.

If you don't want to resell, you can dump a dozen items or so, but you'll lose out on most of the factors that cause high bids (steady inventory and good services causing repeat customers, acquisition of rares, wide variety of items increasing bids, ability to offer low starting bids due to high volume increasing end auction prices).

Probably more information than you wanted, but there it is.

Good luck!
8)

  


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Post Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 11:19 am 
 

darkseraphim wrote:Paradoxically, the more money you spend, the more you'll make.


I can see that.  My dream is to retire one day and run something like NobleKnight =)

You can improve your odds by starting your auctions extremely low ($0.01, no reserve), which attracts even more bidders; but that's a gamble if your inventory is small.


That's what I'm doing right now, and I can't say that I'm TOO upset.  My feedback is quite good so far (235, no neutrals or negatives), but I don't have enough of an active inventory to "pull" through bidders of other items (which is one reason I'm holding off, waiting to put up everything AT ONCE).

I don't know what you're selling, but if they're all commons and your eBay reputation is small, you're not going to get much.


Commons, basically.  REAL poor condition stuff, e.g. only suitable for reading/research, I tend to put together in a lot and sell off at once, since no one wants a 2e Monster Manual with a separating spine, four missing pages, and extensive water damage -- but if you combine it with a full set of 2e manuals in similar condition, you might get $5.00 =)

My collection is small enough right now (I'm at about 565 total RPG items in my collection, of which TSR is only a small fraction) that when I get lots, duplicates only account for 10-20% of the total lot.  And I'm leery of bidding on large lots where I  might only need 3 of the items -- I really don't want to get into the resale game, I just want to finance my further collecting activities =)

Snipes at the last minute keep these finds "secret."


Any suggestions for good sniping software?  

I usually bid on about 100-150 auctions at a time and win 10-30


Woo-hoo, I'm not alone!  I have about 150 auctions going right now, and I'm high bidder on maybe 35 of them, and I'm guessing when the auctions finish, I'll be at 10-15 as winner.

Profit tends to run around 10%-100%, and is very hard to predict, but volume is high and your time-profit ratio is fairly efficient.  I do this when I have deep pockets.


Sadly, shipping materials are the hidden costs that kills me.  I REFUSE to ship stuff in cobbled together boxes with poor packing, and bubble protected mailers can cost $1.00 each unless you buy in volume (I may run down to Staples right now and load up on bubble protected mailers in fact, just for this reason -- in lots of 100 I think it's about $0.60 each).

But buying packing material, even recycling the stuff that people send to me (much of which is substandard), is a pain.

Probably more information than you wanted, but there it is.


Not at all, that was a GREAT post, thanks!

  

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 11:44 am 
 

BaconTastesGood wrote:Sadly, shipping materials are the hidden costs that kills me. I REFUSE to ship stuff in cobbled together boxes with poor packing, and bubble protected mailers can cost $1.00 each unless you buy in volume (I may run down to Staples right now and load up on bubble protected mailers in fact, just for this reason -- in lots of 100 I think it's about $0.60 each).


Bubble mailers are absolutely worthless for protecting books/comics/RPG items, IMO.  And they cost a freakin' fortune. . . Nothing fills me with dread like seeing my "non-regular" mailman driving away down the street. . . I just know that it will be the day someone mailed me something in a "bubble-envelope" and the postal carrier will "bend/shove/cram" it into my box.  I guess it's not their fault, DO NOT BEND must loose all meaning to a mail carrier's eyes after years of delivering.

The only sure way to protect these kinds of items are to pack them between two stiff pieces of cardboard.  Then tape the cardboard pieces together so the item can't "slip" out.

Then just stick it in a manilla envelope (or a Priority Envelope)  - make sure you bag the item in a plastic sleeve (or a plastic grocery bag if you don't have a sleeve available).  REINFORCE the envelope with packing tape at the edges and you are all set.   All you need is a utility knife and left over boxes. . .


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Post Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 12:03 pm 
 

Bubble mailers are a great idea … until your mail carrier gets to them.

My own packing technique is a bit unorthodox, but people seem to like it and damage is almost unheard of.

This is my system.  Others have cheaper / effective systems that work for them.

First, I always plan on sending Priority.  Priority mail gets handled slightly better, and it's faster, the results of which you'll see in your feedback and repeat business.  The problem is the expense.  I charge $4.50 for a single item (which is high), but offer a huge discount to buyers who win multiple items.  For example, if 1 module ships for $4.50, 10 might ship for $9.00 (depending on size).  Note that this system also encourages people to bid on multiple items … ;)

It's crucial that you state these costs up front, and answer all questions.  Buyers don't want to be shafted.  If they feel your fee is high, they will adjust their bid accordingly, but they can only do that if you level with them.

For packing materials, I use Tyvek (plastic/paper weave) envelopes.  They're light with strong seams and a good seal, and virtually indestructible.  Modules and booklets are packed in US Priority mailers, which are free (either online or at your post office) and fairly sturdy.  Instead of packing material, I keep a stack of un-sellable product as bonus items.  These include Dragon and Dungeon magazines, damaged modules, and interesting oddities.  When it's time to ship, I try to stuff in bonus items wherever possible, according to the buyer's tastes.  (An A1 auction might get a damaged A2 and A3.)  This again increases buyer loyalty and also pads the valuable item, while cleaning your closet at the same time.  Just don't go too far over your Priority weight thresholds, or you'll be hurting.

  


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Post Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 12:53 pm 
 

Any suggestions for cheap cardboard/stiffening materials?  I don't have enough old boxes to make these, unfortunately.  Thanks for the tips about bubble mailers, saved me some hassle with that -- although the rigid mailers that are $0.82/ea in qty 100 seem like they might be worth it.

  

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 12:59 pm 
 

Priority Mail boxes!  They are free at the post office - just grab a stack and cut 'em up.

I get tons of boxes from my job - but any cardboard dumpster will do. . . just swallow your pride and zip behind the local Barnes & Noble store.   Stuff a bunch of cardboard in your trunk and you are on your way. . .

I guess this only works in states that require stores to recycle their cardboard though. . . 8)


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